The share plate divide
Serving (possibly) the best rotisserie chicken in London, Story Cellar in Covent Garden offers a menu made for sharing - if everyone’s willing. Sally Trelford finds the perfect setting for even the pickiest party.
How gendered are food preferences? My own experience leads me to think: very.
Dining with girlfriends, we happily choose a range of sharing plates, delighted to have the opportunity to try as many dishes as possible. My chef son is happy to try everyone else’s dishes but can’t countenance not ordering his own main at least while my daughter and I frequently share each dish. And I spent far too long dining with a man who couldn’t bear not to order his own personal dishes and grew quite anxious at the thought of sharing even sides at, say, an Indian or Chinese restaurant. And who doesn’t do that?
When ordering a dessert when I didn’t, the server would invariably suggest: “With two spoons?”. They would look horrified when he replied: “Absolutely not. If she wants pudding, she can order her own.”
Perhaps that’s fair enough. But for event planners trying to please a mixed crowd, I think I’ve found the solution, for small groups at least. Story Cellar is two Michelin star chef Tom Sellers’ second London restaurant. With 50 covers, it serves what might just be the city’s best rotisserie chicken.
Rotisserie chicken at Story Cellar
Rotisserie chicken at Story Cellar
Nestled in the vibrant, bustling Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden, Story Cellar is inspired by casual Parisian-style eateries and offers a private dining space down a short flight of stairs from the main restaurant with its own toilet facilities. Seating up to 18 at one long table – although with that number of guests, there’s little room for standing around with a drink – it is a convivial, attractive space next to the wine cellar. It has no natural light but cleverly-lit, glass-fronted cupboards make it feel like it has and it’s cosy and atmospheric in the evening.
This is a fun part of central London to visit, close to theatreland, and has retained an authentic charm since it was saved from demolition in the 1970s. It’s still buzzy and attractive with a range of lovely independent bars, shops and restaurants ideal for browsing and social media-friendly snaps.
But you’d hire Story Cellar’s private dining space for the food, which is spectacular. And despite offering a sharing menu concept, the loaded dishes of French-inspired classics would delight even the men I know. Simple ingredients handled exceptionally well.
To start we were served with Carlingford oysters, House bread & cultured butter, Courgette & basil gougeres, Plates of house-cured meats, Burrata with Oil of Life, Nicoise salad with soft boiled egg – something for everyone. The mains were served from the grill and included that Rotisserie chicken, Beef T-bone and Grilled skate with House jus, Peppercorn sauce and Cowboy butter. The sides were equally abundant and tasty: French fries; Heritage tomatoes, basil & red onion; Petit pois a la francaise and a House salad.
Roast
Roast
Chicken Lasagna
Chicken Lasagna
The menu was heavy on meat but the vegetarian I sat with was well-fed and the restaurant can offer alternatives with notice. The accompanying French wines were equally delicious. There is also a wine programme supported by a Coravin system, which allows guests to try rare and exceptional wines by the glass.
Our puddings of Peach Melba soft serve, raspberry sauce & almond, Brown sugar brulee and Bread and butter pudding, tonka bean & orange custard were all as irresistible as they sound, whether with one spoon or two.
Head Chef Rob Homer is clearly on form.
Place cards and personalised menus can be supplied on request.
